coalition

coalition
kirsten.keun@gmail.com

Tuesday, 25 October 2011


Effi Halla Group

We met at the modern face of ORTI Airport, as I shared the stories of the World Cup with my new guests. I met 36 guests from Israel, one stood out of the crowd and seriously informed me: “Kirsten is a Jewish name.. 

We drove to Mpumalanga and the guests enjoyed the grassland Highveld scenery.  We stopped for lunch at Middelburg and a Supermarket in Lydenburg, before ascending the marvelous Long Tom Pass. Between Sabi and Graskop we explored Mari Shires waterfall and some refreshed their faces with the cool mountain stream, the joys of nature.


The full moon led us to Blyde River Canyon and the comfort of www.foreverblydecanyon.co.za/inde in the heart of the canyon. The unique experience of breakfast with the three Rondavels in the background is a must for any visitor to the largest green canyon on earth.

Departing early, we visited the sights of the Canyon, Lisbon Falls, Gods Window, Potholes and Graskop before descending into the Lowveld and Kruger National Park. The guests saw Kruger Park as a highlight and we saw herds of elephant, rhinos, lions, hippos, wild dog and much more.  In five hours time we were fortunate with the abundance and variety of game. After another long day the luxury of www.greenway.co.za/ 





Leaving south towards Swaziland, we drove onto the N4 east arriving at  Jeppes Reef boarder post. The Swazi crossing is a vivid reminder of the complex states in Africa’s Political tapestry.




Passing Piggs Peak and The Gogola Dam we arrived in the capital Mbabane. We enjoyed a walk in the capital around the Food Market and Traditional Medicine or “Muti” Market.  In the afternoon we enjoyed lunch at Swazi Candle Factory, a great lunch stop for the route. We entered back into RSA at Golelaand arrived at Ghost Mountain Inn at eight in the evening. During the delicious dinner we excitedly chatted about the awaiting Zulu experience, some enjoyed the dancing and singing at Ghost Mountain Inn late into the night.  www.ghostmountaininn.co.za   is one of the accommodation highlights in the Kwazulu-Natal Province.  

 Umfolozi-Hluhluwe Park amazed us with its wildlife and nature integrated with the Zulu Culture and legacy. I discussed Dr ian Player’s books about his days spent in these heavenly gardens, the essence of wilderness and history of the land, the friendships and connections he mended with Zululand. We spit on a rock and add it to the pile, bringing us some necessary good fortune on our journeys. 



 Entertainment by singing Zulu warriors and ladies met us at Shakaland. After a traditional lunch at this movie set homestead portraying the proud and colorful history of Shaka’s people, we learnt more about the people of the heavens. Our guide was informative, educational and amusing.
















I recommend www.hiexpress.com in Umhlanga for it’s comfort and views of Durban, the second most populated city in South Africa.  Though the line between city and metropolis obscures the true rating of city size in South Africa.  

In Durban North we visit Mitchells Park, this was once the home of an Asian gift elephant called Nellie, and today hosts a large variety of Avifauna, flora and animals such as Primates, opossums, a tortoise over a hundred years old and goldfish. A random collection of lives symbolic of Ethekwini’s ranking as a vagabond, historic, semi-tropical world city. 




 In the dark dangerous heart of town we explore markets with vivid Asian aromas, scary African muti imported by the diaspora of sugarcane workers, slaves and the myriad of cultures this city harbours.  Downtown hustle and bustle of a tropical complex city, I guide my guests carefully through the challenges of notorious down town Durban.  We walk through Victoria Street market, with a strikingly beautiful shrine obscured and hidden by the grey black intoxicating highways that snake over the taxi ranks and markets. We smell fish and stare at amputated heads of black goats in the Fish market, and we walk around the block as I nervously check the head and tail of my group snaking through a dirty urban African Eden.  

After Mitchels Park and the Indian Markets, we get to the beach. An amble along the newly renovated Peers is enough to create and appitite and my guestsrequest we proceed to lunch options. (I’m forced to call this tour Buffet Destroyers..) So uShaka marine world is the setting for lunch, with an ample supply of “American Take Aways..


We visit the Botanical Gardens hosting a rich collection of Orchids and depart for King Shaka airport.

A stand off ensues after the ground staff of the flight informs us that it is over booked.The Tour leader does not allow anyone to volunteer to miss the flight and get a hotel stay plus free domestic return ticket of choice.  After some drama the complete group boards the short flight to Port Elizabeth andwww.southernsun.com/Garden-Court/Kings-Beach   

The late dinner is relaxed and the foods delicious, with a night view over Madiba Bay complementing the service ofwww.food24.com/Restaurants.../Restaurants/Blackbeards-Lookout-an…  The next morning we leave for the Garden Route.  The guests enjoy the hanging bridges of Storms River Mouth and also lunch at the Garden Route National Park. We also enjoy visits to the Big Tree and Bloukrans River Bridge though no one options for a Bungee jump.  







Dinner is presented on the Paddle Cruiser on Knysna Lagoon next to the Knysna Heads, a remarkable setting. At www.knysnariverclub.co.za/ Joe checks us in and helps us with all the questions and requests of the guests. Boogie served a delicious breakfast and was friendly and warm to our group. 
The following morning we walk from the River Club to the Waterfront to start the day, observing the lagoon and it’s islands.




From Knysna we depart in the direction of George and stop over at Victoria bay. A leisurely amble takes us to where the surf breaks strongly on the rocks.  We visit George and take the Outeniqua Pass over the Mountains to get to Oudtshoorn.



In the afternoon we meet the amazing residents of Cango Wildlife Ranch. Safari Ostrich Farm treats us with a delicious BBQ dinner. We check into OudtshoornHotel looking forward to the Swartberg and Caves experience.  



Largely the hands of prisoners built the Swartberg Pass. Today it is an attraction that presents wonderful scenery with abundant hiking trails and birdlife in the area. Our Guides were excellent, not leaving one stone unturned in their attention to detail and service. 







We enjoyed lunch at Prins Albert and drove through the exposed geological formations of Meiringspoort returning to Oudtshoorn. At CP Nel Museum MrsBoshoff presents a tour of the facility and receives us warmly. At six the local community at the Synagogue welcome the guests from Israel to a service and braai. 



On our journey to Cape Town we visit the Dias Museum, Swellendam and Hermanus We watch the whales sailing in the distance.  

The view of False Bay is layered with clouds as we enter the Cape Flats over Sir Louwries Pass. I explain how thankful we are for rain in the relatively arid Western Cape. 

The www.southernsun.com/Hotels/Cape-Sun/ Cape Sun is an icon in the five star hospitality history of Cape Town, and ideally situated for exploring the Mother City. 

The Castle of Good Hope was built on the beach by some of the first European settlers to the sub continent as a fort. Slaves were used in its construction as the Europeans feared attacks from passing ships and local cultures alike, from the onset unable to live at peace with those who they met here. 

Centuries later the Castle houses museums delving into the wars and histories of all peoples that inhabited the Peninsulas shores and mountains.
We marvel at the historical Change of the Guards.

The Jewish Museum is our next stop and my personal favorite part of the museum is the Zappiro exhibition, a must see for anyone who knows about Zappiro.



After our exposure to culture and religion, we enter the nature of the South African Museum. Darwin’s theories and work was perhaps not fully recognized in his time of visiting the Cape, today we realize how ground breaking his work was. The Darwin display at the South African Museum is impressive, informative and interesting.
 The San exhibit at this museum is spiritual and stimulating. We will stay poor if we don’t learn from the culture and history of the first people.

In the afternoon we visit Stellenbosch and Bergkelder that presents us with a complete cellar tour of their facility dug into the side of Pappagaaiberg. 
Stellenbosch was originally called First River, as it was the first river the early settlers encountered traversing the Cape Flats.  



Early evening we ascend the Cable Car to summit Table Mountain. The Khoi people called it Hoerikwaggo, simply meaning Sea Mountain. The Layers of Sandstone weathering at an even pace is the reason for the flat summit of this iconic ancient mountain. 

On our last full day together we explore the Peninsula. Seals, Penguins, Capes and Oceans are few points of discussion during our 120 km drive up and down the coasts. Everyone agrees that it is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. 

After our Peninsula exploration, we return to the Gardens Synagogue. It’s a special Jewish occasion as the holy books are revealed and celebrated once a year. The guests are welcomed at the ceremony and invited to the braai following the formalities.



I run to the station to catch the last train home. I think of Israel and it’s neighbors. 

Every Guiding opportunity is also an educational experience. I learnt of a new culture, people’s space and how different cultures communicate.

I make the train just in time. I can’t wait to get home to my dog Biko and my space, home.  

With great appreciation for the work of Jutta and Yaron.








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