Conditions seem uninviting as I drive down Boys drive and peep down the slope into Kalk Bay. It is low tide and the reef will be very shallow when a set wave sucks up on it.
No one is out yet. Soon it will be teeming with spongers and riders looking for a barrel. This is barrel land.
My session turns into a thrashing as the lip throws me over the falls several times. I enjoy watching the pros catching hollow waves and doing big turns. I learn.
A wave shoots me into a long thin pipe and I manage to tuck in just in time to make the speedy ride. Backhand barrel. Hard to describe.
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